Solo Canoeist Neal Moore Crosses America

On March 1, 2019– the day after the splendidly rowdy and irreverent Fisher Poets Gathering brought a hundred or so characters to the Hanthorn Cannery Museum in Astoria–another story teller showed up at the museum on Pier 39 at the east end of the waterfront. His name is Neal Moore and he also talks and writes about his adventures on the water. But any similarity ends there, because the boat he has chosen for his travels in a canoe, and he was about to begin paddling across the USA.
He explained to me that he was ready to embark on a transcontinental solo journey from the Pacific to the Atlantic, but not by the typical route to New Orleans or Florida. He had mapped out a marathon alternative that “tacked” across the country between the Gulf of Mexico and the Great Lakes navigating 22 waterways in 22 states before arriving in New York in a couple of years. It covered a total distance of 7,500-miles with a long portage over the Great Divide. As if that wasn’t enough of a challenge, his literary goal is equally ambitious: to collect 100 stories from 100 cities and towns “to tell the story of America.”
However, Neal is not just another blogger: he was called a “modern-day Huck Finn” by CNN, when he reported on his 2,200-mile canoe journey down the length of the Mississippi River in 2009. They published many of his reports on CNN.com as a “citizen reporter.” His book about that journey “Down the Mississippi” was published by the Mark Twain Museum Press of Hannibal, Missouri. It includes many quotes from the great writer about the historic riverboat towns that Neal re-discovers 150 years later. The book has received positive reviews for its perceptive and literary style.

After a decade of foreign travel, he is still committed to meeting Americans who live by the water and listening to the stories they have to tell. His optimism was downright infectious, and even the need to portage his boat and gear a total of 168 miles using a small cart didn’t phase him. But I wasn’t the only local boater who lectured him on safety on the might Columbia River—the water temperature, headwinds, dams etc. Floyd Holcom, a former gillnetter and the owner of Pier 39 and Astoria SCUBA, fitted him with a dry suit and provided a base where he could get organized, while interviewing some Astorians for his first video report.

Departure day was clear but cold as we loaded the canoe with all his gear in watertight bags. Floyd made sure everything was properly stowed and secured. while I filmed the scene with Neal’s camera. Then he cast off and I pulled out my own camera and started shooting as I followed him out of the East Mooring Basin and into the flooding tide. (He used one of those photos to headline his Facebook page–(https://www.facebook.com/alittlewake/) Then I realized my little camera also had a video-mode, so I switched it to record as he headed out towards the anchored ships.

That was the last time we saw him, but he has called as regularly and we continue to follow his exploits online. This is how he described the feeling that day: “So, let’s get to it – roll up our sleeves, get our feet wet, and in the spirit of Mark Twain, light out for the territory!” He experienced a full range of weather on the way to Portland, as he followed the official campsites of the Lower Columbia Water Trail. After a week of strenuous paddling in all kinds of weather, he took a break in Portland until April. One of his contacts built a cart to carry his boat around the dams, and he researched the urban scene for his second report.

April was only a little kinder than March, but Neal cheerfully headed into the Columbia Gorge and soon learned why this is a world center for board and kite sailing, as he faced winds from the east and lost any help from the tide. paddling up the mighty Columbia. He successfully negotiated the Bonneville Dam and the historic Cascade Locks area. In Hood River, he found some new friends and interesting people including the mayor to interview. “I want to tap into our collective experience, and listen – to individuals, families, and communities rising above themselves – from sea to shining sea,” he wrote.

Then he resumed the journey upstream toward The Dalles Dam. That was where the journey almost came to an end. When he began his first portage around The Dalles Dam, his new hand trailer turned into a disaster. The heavily loaded fiberglass hull sagged and cracked from the stress over the axle. A phone call later, he was on his way back to Hood River in a pick up and searching for a replacement. He found one the next day across the river in White Salmon, Washington, and his friends were happy to help him pick up a rugged Old Town boat. (This was built with their exclusive Royalex process–now discontinued. He called me to check that this sandwich core between two layers of plastic was a better laminate.)

Back on the river, it wasn’t long before Neal had another mishap—the new boat was swamped by the chop breaking over the bow east of The Dalles, and he needed help from a passing boater to get to shore. But like Lewis and Clark, he watched the wind carefully, and “proceeded on.” He met some Native American fishermen in the upper gorge, and spent several days learning about their community and way of life. Here is that report: April 23: I had the pleasure to meet up with Bud Herrera of the Columbia River Inter-Tribal Fish Commission.

Bud is an Umatilla, a fisherman and entrepreneur who lives near the Rufus Landing Recreation Area where I recently made camp. We traded goods (he told me with a laugh, just like 150 years ago. He gave me a beaded salmon necklace so that other Native Americans I meet along my journey will know that I’m a friend, dried salmon for energy, which he calledS “gold”, and his own personal copy of Shadow Tribe: The Making of Columbia River Indian Identity by Andrew H. Fisher  I gave what I could: organic coffee, a honey crisp apple, and the promise of a signed copy of my previous expedition memoir, Down the Mississippi.

Above the tri-cities, in the Hanford Reach area, he resorted to hauling his boat on wheels when the current was impassable, and after many trials, reached Wenatchee on May 20. “With the paddling, combined with the journalism, you feel like you’ve earned these towns,” he said. “You’re paddling, sometimes for days and days, and the story ideas are swirling around in your mind. Then you step into a town, and you’re so excited to be there, and now you’re trying to pull off a story of international consequence. It’s a mental challenge on top of the physical challenge,” he told the local newspaper.

Neal called me again from Chief Joseph Dam to tell me “The current is so strong you’ve gotta take out miles downriver to get around. One more dam to go on the Columbia — Grand Coulee!” Then the wild river retreated into a series of reservoirs like Lake Roosevelt that rewarded Moore with some easier days until June 4.You’ve gotta walk a lot of this section of the Spokane River (both in and out of the water) due to dams, falls, logjams and rapids,” he explained. “But man is it beautiful country! My tenure on and along the Mighty Columbia River has come to an end here at the confluence of the Spokane. I’m grateful for so many new friends and experiences, along with the Columbia itself. A river I’ve learned to respect, to fear, and ultimately embrace during the 88 days and 817 miles I’ve called her home.”
Cheers to all of you for your steady stream of well wishes and encouragement and support. When I’d given it my all and I came up short, there was forever a slap on the back and a handshake and a ‘we’re thinking of you’ to embolden me on. A mighty testing ground for the waterways of this nation to come, in the morn I’ll take a glance back to reflect on the Columbia, and aim my canoe onwards to Idaho and Montana and the Continental Divide.”
Neal’s diary for June 11: A bend in the river. And a logjam stretching the breadth of the St Regis just behind spelled trouble. I was moving fast and paddled for the embankment to crash into it, to slow down. I hit it just before the huge cottonwood swallowed me up, tipped in, and grabbed the roots and vines to pull myself to safety — as the canoe and all my gear disappeared under the obstruction. I was wet and cold and in shock. I scrambled for the highway and as I was walking back off the off ramp to get help from a fly fisherman I’d seen nearby, a big Ram pickup came hauling the wrong way up the off ramp directly at me. It’d been ten minutes and passerby Darin Boyd had seen the green canoe and paddles trucking upside down just downstream and was looking for the canoeist to assist.
Before hypothermia could set in I was in his truck with the heat full blast. We scouted the river and thanks to Darin’s hunting skills and binoculars he spotted the canoe stuck on a rock in swift current across the river and down a steep embankment. We got to the town of St Regis and by the time we found the sheriff deputy, he was already looking for me. Another passerby had reported the upturned canoe and Deputy Ryan Funke had already been up and down the river a few times. We returned to the scene and the volunteer firefighter brigade soon arrived. I changed out of my wet clothes for a fireman suit and with a wench and two sets of rope we lowered fireman Chuck Anderson down to the canoe. We recovered half my gear and the canoe itself, as seen soon after up top this fire truck.
Montana folks look out for each other and today I was lucky and fortunate enough to be on the receiving end of this kindness and expertise. A big shout out to Darin Boyd, Ryan Funke and the the Mineral County Sheriff’s Office, along with Kat Kittridge, Chuck Anderson, Zack Lott, and Mark Boyett of the St Regis, Montana Fire Department. And also to Kat’s brother John who heard the town siren and answered the call. I’m shaken but safe and sound. Minus my paddles, wheels, clothes, journal, and tent, but thanks to the family of friends Bud and Wendy Herrera, I’ll soon head to Missoula where I’ll catch my breath, gear up yet again, and head out (on foot) for the Continental Divide — to be followed by the Missouri and Mississippi rivers. www.alittlewake.com
 
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